On April 18, 1983, there was a suicide bombing at the USA Embassy in Beirut, Lebanon, that killed 63 people, 32 Lebanese, 17 Americans, and 14 visitors. An additional 120 or so people were wounded in this bombing. The victims were mostly embassy and CIA staff members, but also included several US soldiers. This attack came after the Americans had intervened in the Lebanese Civil War. This was the deadliest attack on a USA diplomatic mission up to that time. Unlike the Iran hostage taking in 1979, this attack killed people. Many consider this to be the beginning of the many Islamist attacks on USA targets. The Islamic Jihad Organization, a pro-Iranian group claimed responsibility. This Islamic group said that this was part of the Iranian Revolution’s campaign against imperialist targets throughout the world, although the official Iran government denied any role in this attack. This group said that it would continue to strike at any crusader presence in Lebanon, including international forces. The Lebanese Civil War had been going on since 1975, almost eight years, and continued another eight years, until 1990. Following this attack, the embassy was moved to a supposedly more secure location in East Beirut, but there was another car bomb explosion at this embassy annex, on September 28, 1983, killing 20 Lebanese and 2 American soldiers. Then on October 23, 1983, two truck bombs were detonated at buildings in Beirut, Lebanon, housing American and French service members of the Multinational Force in Lebanon (MNF), a military peacekeeping operation during the Lebanese Civil War. This attack killed 307 people: 241 USA military and 58 French military personnel, 6 civilians, and 2 attackers. This incident was the deadliest single-day death toll for the United States Marine Corps since the Battle of Iwo Jima in World War II and the deadliest single-day death toll for the United States Armed Forces since the first day of the Tet Offensive in the Vietnam War. Another 128 Americans were wounded in the blast. 13 later died of their injuries. Minutes later, a second suicide bomber struck the nine-story Drakkar building, a few miles away, where the French contingent was stationed. 55 paratroopers from the 1st Parachute Chasseur Regiment and 3 paratroopers of the 9th Parachute Chasseur Regiment were killed and 15 injured. It was the single worst French military loss since the end of the Algerian War. A group called Islamic Jihad claimed responsibility for the bombings and said that their aim was to force the MNF out of Lebanon. These attacks eventually led to the withdrawal of the international peacekeeping force from Lebanon, where they had been stationed following the Palestine Liberation Organization (PLO) withdrawal in the aftermath of Israel’s 1982 invasion of Lebanon. Suicide bombings were becoming common in the Middle East. This was the start of a new kind of terrorist war. I had heard about the American University of Beirut in the 1960s when I was in Louvain, Belgium. Were you familiar with the attack on the American Embassy in Beirut and these other bombings in Beirut, Lebanon, in 1983?
Back to LA and Chicago
That Wednesday afternoon of July 13, 1983, we headed back to LA along California Highway 1. Along the way, we stopped to enjoy Morro Rock in Morro Bay. We also drove along Malibu Beach and Santa Monica Beach. We also admired the boats at Marina del Rey. I have seven postcards from this driving trip. We had to get ready to head back to Chicago the next day. I do not know where we stayed that night, but it must have been near LAX. On Thursday, July 14, 1983, we flew from LAX to Salt Lake International Airport on Western Airlines, and then on to Chicago O’Hare as our California trip came to an end. I have a couple of postcards from Salt Lake City, the lake itself, and the mountains that surround it. We were heading back to life in Matteson, Illinois. Our two-week California summer was over. We were back in Illinois. Have you ever gone on vacation in California?
July 13 – Hearst Castle
Hearst Castle, known formally as La Cuesta Encantada, “The Enchanted Hill,” is a historic estate in San Simeon. William Randolph Hearst, the publishing tycoon, and his architect Julia Morgan, built this castle between 1919 and 1947. Today, it is a museum open to the public in a California State Park and registered as a National Historic Landmark and California Historical Landmark. George Hearst (1820-1891), William Randolph Hearst’s father, had purchased the original 40,000-acre estate in 1865, so that it was used for family camping vacations during William Hearst’s youth. In 1919, William Randolph Hearst (1863-1951) inherited some $11,000,000 and estates, including the land at San Simeon. He used his fortune to further develop his media empire of newspapers, magazines, and radio stations. He used his profits on his lifetime hobby of building and collecting. He wanted something a little more comfortable up on the hill. Julia Morgan was an architectural pioneer, America’s first truly independent female architect. She worked in close collaboration with Hearst for over twenty years, and the castle at San Simeon is her best-known creation. In the Roaring Twenties and into the 1930s, Hearst Castle reached its social peak. Originally intended to be a family home for Hearst, his wife Millicent and their five sons, by 1925 Hearst’s marriage was effectively over, so that the San Simeon Castle became his domain and that of his mistress, the actress Marion Davies. Their guest list included many of the Hollywood stars of the period and other political luminaries, as well as other notable people. These visitors watched the latest movie in the theater before retiring to the luxurious accommodation provided by the guest houses of Casa del Mar, Casa del Monte, and Casa del Sol. During the days, they admired the views, rode horses, played tennis, bowled, or golfed and swam in the “most sumptuous swimming pool on earth.” I thought that the swimming pool was big. Hearst, his castle, and his lifestyle were satirized by Orson Welles in his 1941 film Citizen Kane. Hearst’s health compelled him and Marion Davies to leave the castle for the last time, as he died in Los Angeles in 1951 at the age of 88. Julia Morgan died in 1957. The following year, the Hearst family gave the castle and many of its contents to the state of California and the mansion was opened to the public in June 1958. George Bernard Shaw said that this castle is what God would have built if he had had the money. It really was magnificent grounds and a very nice house. It had a bell tower like a church. Hearst and his family occupied Casa Grande for the first time at Christmas, 1925. Hearst Castle has a total of 42 bedrooms, 61 bathrooms, 19 sitting rooms, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, tennis courts, a movie theater, an airfield and, during Hearst’s lifetime, the world’s largest private zoo. I have ten postcards and a booklet about Hearst Castle. I enjoyed it, but it made me realize that only real wealthy people leave monuments to themselves. Have you ever seen Hearst Castle?
California Highway 1
California State Route 1 is a major north–south state highway that runs along most of the Pacific coastline of California, 656 miles, the longest state route in California, and the second-longest in the USA after Montana Highway 200. This Highway 1 has been designated as an All-American Road. In addition to providing a scenic route to numerous attractions along the coast, the route also serves as a major thoroughfare in the Greater LA area, the San Francisco Bay Area, and several other coastal urban areas. We were on Highway 1, when we were in the LA area, along the coast. This road was built piecemeal in various stages, with the first section opening in the Big Sur region in the 1930s. However, portions of the route have had several names and numbers over the years as more segments opened. It was not until the 1964 state highway renumbering that the entire route was officially designated as SR 1. Although SR 1 is a popular route for its scenery, frequent landslides and erosion along the coast have caused several segments to be either closed for lengthy periods for repairs, or re-routed inland. SR 1 is part of the California Freeway and Expressway System. The entire route is designated as a Blue Star Memorial Highway to recognize those in the United States Armed Forces. For the most part, SR 1 runs parallel to the coastline, or close to it, but does turn several miles inland at various locations to avoid several federally controlled or protected areas. The Big Sur section from San Luis Obispo to Carmel is an official National Scenic Byway. That is where we were headed on Tuesday afternoon in July, 1983. SR 1 splits from US 101 at Santa Rosa Street in San Luis Obispo and then resumes as a four-lane road as the Cabrillo Highway. Unfortunately, the day that we were there, Big Sur was closed because of a mud slide. Nevertheless, I have a couple of postcards from there. Thus, we headed south on Highway 1 to San Simeon, about ninety miles south of Carmel, to stay overnight at the Silver Surf Motel that still exists today at 9390 Castillo Drive. They had a nice swimming pool, after all the driving that day. Thus, we slept on Tuesday, July 12, 1983, near Hearst Castle in San Simeon. San Simeon is an unincorporated community on the Pacific coast of San Luis Obispo County, about halfway between Los Angeles and San Francisco, about 230 miles from each place on SR 1. A key feature of the area is Hearst Castle, a hilltop mansion built for William Randolph Hearst in the early 20th century that is now a tourist attraction. San Simeon was founded as a sub-mission to Mission San Miguel Arcángel in 1797. San Simeon was named for Rancho San Simeon, although the town-site is north of that ranch. In 1865, Pico sold part of the ranch to George Hearst, the father of William Randolph Hearst. In 1953, the Hearst Corporation donated the William Randolph Hearst Memorial Beach, including the Hearst Pier, to San Luis Obispo County. It is currently part of Hearst San Simeon State Park. Most of the development at San Simeon was in the 1960s to the 1980s, to serve as motels and cafes for visitors to Hearst Castle. That was the reason that I picked this place to stay. What do you know about California Highway 1?
Tuesday, July 12 – Pebble Beach and Carmel
We were on the road again the next morning, Tuesday, July 12, 1983. First up was the 17-Mile Drive, a scenic road through Pebble Beach and Pacific Grove on the Monterey Peninsula, much of it along the Pacific coastline. This road passes famous golf courses, mansions, and scenic attractions, including the Lone Cypress, Bird Rock, and the 5,300-acre Del Monte Forest of Monterey Cypress trees. This drive serves as the main road through the gated community of Pebble Beach. Most of the 17-Mile Drive is owned and operated by the Pebble Beach Corporation. In 1880, a consortium of The Big Four railroad barons (PIC), Charles Crocker, Mark Hopkins, Collis Huntington, and Leland Stanford bought this land. By 1892, the PIC laid out a scenic road that they called the 17-Mile Drive, meandering along the beaches and among the forested areas between Monterey and Carmel. Within short order, the area became a tourist destination with the building of the Hotel Del Monte in 1880, that was later remodeled in 1926. The hotel was the starting and finishing point for 17-Mile Drive. The Del Monte Golf Course was added in 1897 as part of the hotel and is today the oldest operating course west of the Mississippi. In 1919, the Los Angeles Times called the 17-Mile Drive one of the “great wonders of the world.” The crossing of Highway 68 and 17-Mile Drive marks the entrance to Pebble Beach. Without stops, it takes a minimum of 20 minutes to reach Carmel. The numerous turnoffs allow stopping to take pictures, or getting out to stroll along the ocean or among the trees. Visitors receive a map that points out some of the more scenic spots. In addition, a red-dashed line is in the center of the main road to guide visitors, and help prevent them from venturing into the adjacent neighborhood streets. Primary scenic attractions include Cypress Point, Bird Rock, Point Joe, Pescadero Point, Fanshell Beach & Seal Point. The famous “Witch Tree” landmark, often used as scenic background in movies and television, was formerly at Pescadero Point. The tree was blown down by a storm on January 14, 1964. Pescadero Point is also the site of the Ghost Tree, a landmark Monterey Cypress tree. Chief among the scenic attractions is the Lone Cypress, a salt-pruned Monterey cypress tree which is the official symbol of Pebble Beach and a frequent fixture of television broadcasts from this area. Then it was on to lunch in Carmel, at the Scandia restaurant, that no longer exists. Carmel-by-the-Sea is a small town of only 3,220. In 1905, the Carmel Arts and Crafts Club was formed to support and produce artistic works after the 1906 San Francisco earthquake. Finally, it was on to Highway 1, the Big Sur. Have you ever been on the Monterey Peninsula?
Monterey Holiday Inn
After our train trip through the Santa Cuz Redwood Forest, we headed south to Monterey, about 45 miles. Monterey is a small city situated on the southern edge of Monterey Bay, in Monterey County, with a population of 30,218. Monterey Bay got its name from the Spanish explore Sebastián Vizcaíno in 1602. The town of Monterey became the capital of the Mexican Province of California in 1777. Monterey then served as the capital of Alta California from 1770 until 1849, being the only official port-of-entry to California. Monterey hosted California’s first American constitutional convention in 1849, which composed the documents necessary to apply to the United States for statehood. Today, Monterey is a popular tourist destination on the Central Coast, hosting notable attractions such as the Monterey Bay Aquarium, Cannery Row, Fisherman’s Wharf, California Roots Music and Arts Festival, and the annual Monterey Jazz Festival. Monterey had long been famous for the abundant fishery in Monterey Bay. Cannery Row was once one of the most productive fish canning hubs in the world, until its collapse in the 1950’s due to overfishing. A few of the old fishermen’s cabins from the early 20th century have been preserved as they originally stood along Cannery Row. This city has a noteworthy history as a center for California painters in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Such painters as Arthur Frank Mathews, Armin Hansen, Xavier Martinez, Rowena Meeks Abdy and Percy Gray lived or visited to pursue painting in the style of either En plein air or Tonalism. Many noted authors have also lived in and around Monterey, including Robert Louis Stevenson, John Steinbeck, Ed Ricketts, Robinson Jeffers, Robert A. Heinlein, and Henry Miller. More recently, Monterey has been recognized for its significant involvement in post-secondary learning of languages other than English and its major role in delivering translation and interpretation services around the world. In 1995, California proclaimed Monterey “the Language Capital of the World.” That evening of July 11, 1983, we headed to Monterey Peninsula to stay at the Holiday Inn on the beach at 2600 Sand Dunes Drive. Today it is called Monterey Beach Hotel, a four-star hotel. It was right on the Pacific Ocean beach, where we could see the ocean from our room. I have a postcard of it. Then we went to Fisherman’s Warf in Monterey to have a fish dinner. Then it was off to bed. We were tired. Are you familiar with Cannery Row by John Steinbeck (1902-1968)?
Roaring Camp and Big Trees Railroad
That Monday afternoon on July 11, 1983, we traveled south to Santa Cruz and a steam engine ride through the redwood forest that is still going today on the “Roaring Camp and Big Trees Railroad.” Thus, we got to see the great redwood trees, while taking a small steam engine four-mile ride in the Santa Cruz Mountains of California, starting in Felton, CA. The Roaring Camp & Big Trees Railroad is a 36” gauge tourist railroad running from the Roaring Camp depot in Felton, CA, up to the top of nearby Bear Mountain. The 3¼ mile climb through a redwood forest has some of the steepest grades west of the Mississippi. This area was bought in 1867 by San Francisco businessman Joseph Warren Welch to preserve the giant redwood trees from logging, as it became known as the Big Trees Ranch, the first property in the state acquired specifically for preserving the redwood sequoia trees. In 1930, the Welch family sold part of the property to Santa Cruz County, which eventually became part of the Henry Cowell Redwoods State Park. F. Norman Clark acquired a ninety-nine-year lease on part of the Big Trees Ranch, and the first scheduled train trip ride took place in 1963. The railway route was laid out so that as few trees as possible would have to be cut on this 170-acre site. We really enjoyed it going up the mountain with all the tall redwood trees all around. Santa Cruz, which means “Holy Cross” is the largest city and the county seat of Santa Cruz County, with less than a 100,000 people. Situated on the northern edge of Monterey Bay, Santa Cruz is a popular tourist destination, owing to its beaches, surf culture, and historic landmarks. Santa Cruz was incorporated as a town in 1866, and became a charter city in 1876. The completion of the South Pacific Coast Railroad in 1880 and the creation of the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk in 1904 solidified the city’s status as a seaside resort community, while the establishment of the University of California, Santa Cruz, in 1965 made Santa Cruz a college town. Have you ever been to a redwood forest?
Winchester Mystery House
For some reason, I must have been intrigued by this house, because on July, 11, 1983, we stopped at this Winchester Mystery House in San Jose. I have eight postcards and four pages of brochures in my scrapbook about this mystery house. One of the brochures says, “Discover the world’s Strangest Monument to a woman’s fears!” There was a historic firearms Museum also. We must have spent some there and Joy may have been interested in it. This mansion was once the personal residence of Sarah Winchester (1839-1922), the widow of firearms magnate William Wirt Winchester. The house became a tourist attraction after Sarah Winchester’s death in 1922. The Victorian and Gothic-style mansion is renowned for its size and its architectural curiosities and for the numerous myths and legends surrounding the structure and its former owner. Sarah had married William Wirt Winchester in 1862. However, between the fall of 1880 and the spring of 1881, Winchester’s mother, father-in-law, and husband died, so that she was left with a large inheritance from her husband. In 1885, at the age of 46, Winchester moved to California from New Haven, Connecticut. She purchased a forty-five-acre ranch near San Jose with a two-story, eight-room farmhouse. Sarah and her husband had developed an interest in architecture and interior design while building a home on Prospect Hill in New Haven. In her new home, she designed the rooms one by one, supervised the project, and sought advice from the carpenters she hired. She took inspiration from the world’s fairs that were common then. While the home was similar in scope to other homes built then, it was unusual for a woman to look after such a project. She was considered an architectural pioneer in her time. She was known to rebuild and abandon construction if the progress did not meet her expectations, which resulted in a maze-like design. In 1897, she tore down and rebuilt a seven-story tower sixteen times. As a result of her expansions, there are walled-off exterior windows and doors that were not removed as the house continued to grow. Multiple levels, as much as five stories, were added to different parts of her home. The design was essentially Victorian, with elements of Gothic and Romanesque features. There was carved wood on the ballroom walls and ceilings. A large, brick fireplace was framed by two windows that included quotes from Shakespeare. The second floor had bedrooms that each had adjoining sitting rooms and sewing rooms. The wall coverings had a leather or metal appearance. The ceilings had moldings, stencils, and faux finishes. There were chandeliers from Germany, art glass from Austria, furnishings from Asia, and paintings from France. She had an early form of intercom, that called for servants. There was an indoor garden with slanted floors that would carry excess water to trap doors which had pipes that would supply water to the outdoor flowers. A generator was installed for a water pump and electricity. Because of Sarah Winchester’s height of four feet ten inches and health issues, a stairway was built that has 44 steps but rises only ten feet. In 1924, Harry Houdini briefly visited the house and was reportedly impressed by its unusual layout and architectural novelties. He suggested that the tour operators call it the “Winchester mystery house,” which it still is named to this day. In the 1970s, they remolded it and added a ghostly quality to it. I thought that it was a little bit of a rip off, but still a little interesting. In 1983, the grounds had twenty places to visit, and there were twenty-five rooms inside on the grand tour that we took. Have you ever heard of this Winchester Mystery House?
Monday, July 11 – Do you know the way to San Jose?
“Do You Know the Way to San Jose” was a 1968 popular song written and composed for singer Dionne Warwick by Burt Bacharach and Hal David, one of Warwick’s biggest international hits. Today, San Jose, with an area of 180 square miles, is Silicon Valley’s largest city with 971,233, more than San Francisco, the third-largest in California, and the 13th-most populous in the United States. The San Jose Metropolitan Area with 9 million people has the third-highest GDP per capita in the world, after Zürich, Switzerland, and Oslo, Norway. Back on Monday, July 11, 1983, we were headed to San Jose via the Highway 680. We said good-bye to Margaret’s cousin in Walnut Creek. We were on our way back to LA. I did not realize the importance of San Jose and the technology revolution that was going on there in the early 1980s. I thought it was the place that Dionne Warwick sung about. The city motto is “Capital of Silicon Valley.” Major global tech companies including Cisco Systems, eBay, Adobe Inc., PayPal, Broadcom, and Zoom maintain their headquarters in San Jose. Following World War II, San Jose experienced an economic boom, with a rapid population growth and aggressive annexation of nearby cities and communities carried out in the 1950s and 1960s. The rapid growth of the high-technology and electronics industries further accelerated the transition from an agricultural center to an urbanized metropolitan area. In the 1990 U.S. census, San Jose officially passed San Francisco in population. The racial makeup of San Jose is 42.8% White, 32.0% Asian, 10.4% Vietnamese, 6.7% Chinese, 5.6% Filipino, 4.6% Indian, 1.2% Korean, 1.2% Japanese, 0.3% Cambodian, 0.2% Thai, 0.2% Pakistani, 0.2% Laotian, 3.2% African American, 0.9% Native American, 0.4% Pacific Islander, 15.7% from other races, and 5.0% from two or more races. Those with an Hispanic or Latino background is 33.2%, as 28.2% of the city’s population is of Mexican descent. The next largest Hispanic groups were those of Salvadoran and Puerto Rican heritage. Non-Hispanic Whites were 28.7% of the population in 2010, down from 75.7% in 1970. Guess what! The richest most tech savvy city in the USA is diverse, but perhaps not equal or inclusive. What do you know about San Jose and the people who live there?
Silicon Valley
Just south of San Francisco is Silicon Valley, a region in Northern California that is a global center for high technology and innovation. Silicon Valley is home to many of the world’s largest high-tech corporations, including the headquarters of more than 30 businesses in the Fortune 1000, and thousands of startup companies. This area also accounts for one-third the venture capital invested in the USA. Silicon Valley got its name from the chemical element used in silicon-based transistors or integrated circuits, which is the focus of computer hardware and software innovators. The popular usage of this name is often credited to Don Hoefler, the first journalist to use the term Silicon Valley in a news story on January 11, 1971. However, the term did not gain widespread use until the early 1980s, with the introduction of the IBM PC and numerous related hardware and software products to the consumer market. The term Silicon Valley has both a narrower geographic definition and a wider global one for leading high-tech research and enterprises. The development of this California Silicon Valley was born through the combination of the U.S. Department of Defense at the Ames Research Center and Stanford University’s Research Park, along with the venture capitalists from San Francisco and Silicon Valley Bank. California’s civil codes also allowed scientists to share knowledge. HP and IBM were in this California area in the 1940s. William Shockley, the co-inventor of the first working transistor moved from New Jersey to Mountain View, California, to start Shockley Semiconductor Laboratory to live closer to his ailing mother in Palo Alto. He insisted on using silicon in all his products. Some of his workers started Intel. The Homebrew Computer Club was a highly influential computer hobbyist group in the 1970s and 80s that produced many influential tech founders, like Steve Jobs and Steve Wozniak. The Internet, began to be developed in 1966 by the U.S. Department of Defense and four research universities in California, including Stanford. One thing led to another. First came the computer culture with the microcomputer revolution, then the importance of software. A lot of Xerox employees started their own companies. Commercial use of the Internet became practical and grew slowly throughout the early 1990s. In 2007, Apple introduced the I-phone. Silicon Valley has a population of 3.1 million, but a third of Silicon Valley scientists and engineers are immigrants, and nearly a quarter of Silicon Valley’s high-technology firms are run by Chinese. About a half million information technology workers are in these high-tech companies that were established across San Jose and the Santa Clara Valley. However, Silicon Valley has a severe housing shortage, caused by the market imbalance between jobs created and the housing units built. The wealth inequality in Silicon Valley is more pronounced than in any other region of the United States. Less than 1% of the Valley’s population hold 36% of the wealth. On the other hand, 23% of Silicon Valley residents were living below the poverty line. However, the meaning of the term “poverty” is dependent upon context. Poverty in Silicon Valley means an income of less than $104,400, while the rest of the USA considers the poverty level at $14,891. Of course, there are tens of thousands of “single-digit millionaires” in the Silicon Valley. Do you think that you are poor?